Friday, December 2, 2011

Day 97 - Jaipur, Rajasthan: the lotos-eaters

“COURAGE!” he said, and pointed toward the land,
“This mounting wave will roll us shoreward soon.”
In the afternoon they came unto a land
In which it seemed always afternoon.
All round the coast the languid air did swoon,
Breathing like one that hath a weary dream.
Full-faced above the valley stood the moon;
And, like a downward smoke, the slender stream
Along the cliff to fall and pause and fall did seem.

- Alfred, Lord Tennyson (1809-1892) The Lotos-Eaters

Jaipur - Things have moved very quickly since I arrive just 10 days ago. Upon my arrival, I had a short tour of Studio Sukriti, where I am having my first professional artist residency. India has shown me many things. It is such an inspiring and beautiful place and yet, I didn't know what I would make or where I would begin. So I decided that my first day would be spent going into the city to see what Jaipur is all about. I began with a visit to the City Palace, where I made fast friends with the gypsy musicians who play classical Indian music and have a puppet show for visitors. They had a long row of puppets that they had made and were selling. I sat and listened to their music, had tea with them and talked with Kishan and his cousin for some time before they played their show for me with the puppets. Kishan told me about his family and invited me to come over for dinner one night...any night, it was my choice - any time I could come I was welcome. He gave me his brother, Ravi's telephone number and told me to call when I could come. I wanted to buy a puppet from them but instead, they gave me one as a gift, refusing to take my money. He said that we were now friends and it was his honor to give a gift to me. 
Ravi and his family are very poor. They live in the colony behind the Nepali Market. His house is a series of concrete rooms that are connected with a few other rooms where his brother and their families all live. The roof is made of pieces of sheet metal and a blue plastic tarp. He has no door and the walkway to his home is a stone path that barely covers a dug out channel of sewage from the showers and toilets. Many other families live here as well, but many have do not have a roof and I have seen some sleeping on the dirt.  Having grown up in St. Louis, Missouri, if it were America I do not think I would have the courage to come into this neighborhood. Trust has been my action plan here in India. I have continued to be myself here, looking people in the eyes, talking to anyone and everyone, and following my heart and instincts.
            When I arrived at Ravi's house, the children were waiting for their nightly music lesson. There were 10 children, ranging from 4 to 12 years old. Many do not go to school. They help their parents make the puppets and work the streets of Jaipur playing music and selling the puppets. Many kids from this area collect plastic and other items that can be sold for money. Many sell items outside the nearby markets. This is the gypsy colony and most of these kids are learning to play the tablas and harmonium, singing the songs and dancing the traditional dances so that they can continue their traditions in the arts as their parents have for generations. Many times their lives are filled with beauty and music, yet it is also a very difficult life. At this time of year, Jaipur is cool and has many visitors who pay them to do events or give tips for the shows they hold around the city. The summer months are very hot, dry, unbearable, and money is scarce. Their homes have no fans much less air conditioning. Being a former resident of Phoenix, Arizona, I cannot imagine being outside in the heat for an hour much less living in it.  We began the evening with some chai tea and the kids sat on the floor around us, filling the 8 x 8 foot room to capacity.
We began the evening with some chai tea and the kids sat on the floor around us, filling the 8 x 8 foot room to capacity. Ravi gave his tablas to his 7 year old son, Ajwaden, who played and led the other children to sing along and clap - there was so much joy in such a small room!  After the lesson, the children were eager to begin their art lesson. I had prepared small cardboard 'tables' for them to use as a surface to draw and paint on. Since we were short of space, we had to skip the mess of paint and instead use crayons, pencils, markers and pastels. The walls were also utilized as a drawing surface. Ravi played a song on tablas that the children were familiar with and learning, while he sang the rhythm to the kids who were instructed to draw what that sound felt and sounded like, using color, line, and space. I was surprised at how easily they shared the materials and space, and how eager they were to help each other. At the end of the class there was no question of keeping the drawings - they each assumed that they were for me to keep. They replaced the caps for the markers and put the materials away in less than 5 minutes time. There was no battle like I had experienced as a mother of two boys, or a classroom parent teachers assistant - yet this was a group of 17 children who do not go to school. While I collected the drawings and explained what qualities were good about each one, I decided that their work should exhibited along with mine at the end of my residency. After all, the energy and joy they share with me is fuel and inspiration or my work and my life right now.  My work is about my perspective and experience in here in India. I have traveled from the north to the south visiting farms, textile companies, NGO's, people’s homes, and meeting weavers, artists, and families. Indian people waste no time with superficial small talk. In the span of one hour the conversation will cover personal details about life, spirituality, philosophy and even politics - there is no distance or difference that creates barrier between us. When one is open and trusting, courage is not needed.   
On January 2nd through the 6th, 2012, I will have my first solo exhibition, the lotos-eaters, at Jawahar Kala Kendra Arts Center in Jaipur. At this show, I'll exhibit the work of my students along with mine. I'll be posting images of the kids and my artistic process as I go...allowing for technological limitations and obstacles such as my hard-drive which no longer communicates with my computer. Such is life…

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Day 67 Two sides of Pondicherry

 The poverty level in India is 32 rupees per day- this sign reads that if you are over 65 years old, the government will give you 200 rupees per month - approximately $4 US dollars. To get an idea of what that is in India, a chai teas costs 7 rupees at the tea stall, the average thali- or local "plate lunch" of Indian food served at the local style Indian restaurant costs about 80 rupees.

Pondicherry is a former French settlement. This beautiful, clean European style neighborhood runs parallel to the boardwalk of the beach. There is a garden, restaurants, art galleries and boutiques that are a haven for tourists and visitors to the Sri Aurobindo Ashram.
Keep walking north down the cobblestone streets of French Pondi...I thought I was in Europe.
On the north side of Pondi, these guys asked me to take their photo.

 This is Lakshmi. She will bless you, tapping you on the head with her trunk if you give her a few coins or some grass to eat. She lives and works at the Manakkula Vinayakar Temple.
The flower market



Inside the museum at the Pondicherry papermaking Company. It is run by the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, where the "mother" is fondly revered by followers. 

This goat is trying to eat the building.

Colorful Pondicherry.

The only beach with sand that I found in Pondi. Due to multiple incidences of drowning, it is illegal to swim in Pondicherrry.




Saturday, October 22, 2011

Diwali in Madurai

Well, its been a long journey from Dehra Dun. I flew to Goa to meet up with my dear friend, Alex Dorcean, who is also here in India from the University of Hawaii. He is a creative writer working toward his Masters, reading about Shiva and writing a novel. We celebrated his birthday and spent a few days walking on the beaches of Goa discussing our ongoing projects in India and our life goals and dreams. One year ago Alex and I made a commitment to fulfill our dream of coming to India, and here we are! Watching that dream become a reality and sharing that dream with a dear friend is very special - I am excited to see how India directs our work.

I've been traveling by bus since Goa. Onward to the cottonbelt of India!!!  I pass many small farms, some cotton here and there, small, dry looking patches, accompanied by small fields of white roses. The sweet smell of the roses was a welcome pause from the car exhaust and rotting garbage that is the norm on a non/ac state bus in India. I like the bus when I can get a decent seat - and now that I have a broken foot and am limping around they give me the front where I can prop my foot up and see clearly out the window. I wasn't so lucky (if you can call having a sore foot lucky) on my way to Mysore - stuck for 18 hours squished between a large man in the window seat, one in the isle and suitcases looming over me in the seat in front of me. I got off the bus with two swollen feet and ankles - I had never had this happen before! I had to sit with my feet on the wall at the hotel for 4 hours before I could go out!

Today I am in Madurai - I've almost reached the southernmost tip of India. It has become sort of a challenge for me to see if I can get all the way to Thiruvananthapuram by bus. I'm going to meet with a University art professor there. Maybe I'll find some contemorary art! I'm okay if I don't. There is a temple complex there that is amazing. Afterwards I will take the train (probably) to Auroville and see what that is all about. It is supposed to be a completely sustainable community. We'll see what I learn there. I'll be going to Jaipur early, due to my toe, and so that I can begin learning some papermaking before I dive in to the foundry and ceramic at Studio Sukriti. I've heard so much about Rajasthan I am getting excited to go there. Moving from place to place is exciting but also exhausting. It will be nice to stay put for a while.

More pictures later when I can use my own computer!
Namaste!!!

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Weaving in Rural India

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RseegKbxiA

Click on the above link to learn about NGO near Rishikesh India that trains rural impoverished women to weave textiles in their homes.

Saturday, September 10, 2011

Day 8 - Still in Dharmsala - growing roots in Mcleod Ganj

I saw an eagle from my room today, its call demanded my attention away form my computer. Unable to stay too far from my room because of the inevitable gastrointestinal challenges to my body, I stayed home today and enjoyed the peacefulness of my room with a view. I use my computer to organize my photos and my thoughts, as I've begun a routine of writing about each of my days here in this very special country. I am luckyto have this room. I have seen many of the other rooms around town and mine has an unobstructed view of the mountain range, and along with that a hill that the locals; human, goats and cows, traverse daily up and down the path between the stream below and the village above. I hear the sound of rushing water coming down the hill from the almost daily rains. The monsoon brings thunder that rolls across the mountain range like nothing I have ever heard before in my life. I could listen to it all day. The goats cry when they become too wet from the rains, birds sing, and  black crows often land in the large pine that stands directly in front of my room. The electricity goes out again and I am forced to put away my computer, especially a computer. In a place like this, it just doesn't seem right to be on a computer anyway. 

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Dharmshala

Dharmshala Sept 7 - Yesterday I met 27 year old Tibetan refugee, Kelsang, who showed me the proper way to circumambulate within the temple of the Dalai Lama. he taught me the mantra - Om Mani Padma Hum - explaining the karmic power of this most important mantra that is to be repeated continuously while walking and counting the beads of the mala. You can buy a mala anywhere, but it must be blessed by a monk or preferably by the Dalai Lama himself. The mala is made up of prayer beads, usually rosewood, and when blessed it holds the power to release those prayers for others and for the world. It also protects you- this is why Buddhist wear the malas either around the neck or on the wrist.
Kelsang wants to teach me more about Buddhism and his culture. He misses Tibet. It is very beautiful here but it is not his home. When he was a child his parents paid much money to have someone take him here. he crossed the Himalayan mountains to Nepal and then to on to Dharmshala where he and the other refugees were brought to the Dalai Lama who asked him if he would like to become a monk or if he would like to go to school and have an education. Kelsang chose an education. He is now on summer holiday and will return to Delhi next month to finish his final testing for his college degree. Then he plans to find work for the government of India. He would like to visit his homeland in Tibet but it is very difficult, may times dangerous and almost impossible. He says that you must apply for a visa, pay a lot of money and wait for a long time, many times never to receive the permission. Many Tibetans try to return because they miss their families and want to help them. If caught, they are often arrested, beaten, and imprisoned by the Chinese police.

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

A new friend..

I've been looking at various options on how to meet people in India when I remembered that I had heard a friend talk about how she traveled through Europe using couchsurfing.com so I decided to check it out and see if people are using it in India. Since I need to find a place to rest the first days when I fly into Delhi, I decided to see if I could find someone for those days. I browsed the couches offered by various people in Delhi, narrowing my search to women since I'd like to hear what life is like for women in India. Right away I found 32 year old Savita in Delhi. She says that she teaches classes in indian cooking - perfect! I wrote to her and told her why I was coming to India and that I would love to meet her and sleep on her couch for a few nights - and take one of her classes if she's willing! She kindly welcomed me into her home and even signed up for facebook to keep in touch and make friends this way. I am very happy to have a new friend and a safe place to go when I arrive in Delhi.
I've decided that couchsurfing could be the answer I was looking for.  I'd much rather buy someone dinner or fill up their fridge than pay a guesthouse or hotel and be alone. Its a good way to meet people, and relatively safely since they have means of verifying the identity of a person. At first it looks like a dating website but then the people have a list of references and experiences of the people who have stayed with them, or even just met for a cup of coffee. You don't have to offer your couch to join either, just offering other travelers advise or to meet up for coffee or whatever is enough. Its a way of connecting with people outside the tourist circle, to see a wider perspective on life. It could end up being better than facebook. We'll see....
Namaste

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Today is officially the last day of my Spring semester of graduate school at the University of Hawaii at Manoa.  This means that tomorrow I will begin my process of obtaining my visa for India and will purchase my airline tickets. Wooohoo!  The time is passing quickly. I am enjoying the process of seeing things unfold. These past few weeks have been amazing for me. I've been blessed by many generous people who have confidence in me. My journey in India is being funded by the Geraldine Clark Fellowship Fund in Painting, the J. Watamull Scholarship for Study in India, and by the Graduate Achievement Scholarship. I can't say thank you enough!  My fullest attention and dedication to my research and art practice in India will be the best way to say it. As grandma always said - actions speak louder than words!

Speaking of actions:  I've also been very blessed in that I was given the opportunity to perform at the Contemporary Museum in Honolulu (photo above). This performance, Paradox, embodies my personal struggle in locating myself within the subject of my art practice: the cotton and textile industry. My performance work is one way that I explore materials and concepts in my work and has been part of the first small steps I've made in my discovery of this subject. Next step: India.